Wednesday 21 July 2010

Edinburgh rivalry

Edinburgh is a beautiful city. It is an almost perfect blend of natural and man-made architecture that welcomes visitors from all around the world. In any other city the centre's castle would dominate, but the rock it sits upon is a constant reminder of what was there before the idea of a castle was even conceived. The Scott Monument and the Balmoral Hotel offer picturesque views, but they'd be nothing without the gardens beneath them, formed organically from the lake that ran through the city years before.

The scenery softens the skyline and brings calm to the city, making Edinburgh's people and culture softer, gentler and more sublime than almost any other Western capital. For the theatre-goers and the art lovers, they make for a happy marriage. But for the football fan, it creates an awkward imbalance.

Local rivals are meant to hate one another. It is the eleventh commendment - thou shalt hate thy derby opponents. But Edinburgh lends itself poorly to hate, and its opposing football fans often find it difficult to force the same significant ill-feeling towards one another so easily fermented by their counterparts in the West.

Hearts and Hibs represent both sides of the Edinburgh equation; Hearts are industrious workman-like, built in a steely part of the city where nature's face was demolished and rebuilt for man's profit, while Hibs are cultured, more concerned with style and artistic football played as it is beside the Water Of Leith under the watchful eye of those on top of Calton Hill.

The different approaches consistently collide, but the nature of the people following their teams means neither are represented with too much vim and vigour. There are zealouts who will claim to hate the other side, but the average Edinburgh football fan doesn't feel this deeply about it. If anything, the city has taught them to appreciate both sides.

My grandfather, a Hearts fan, spoke proudly of a time when, hindered by the cost of travel, he would happily watch whoever was at home each weekend, meaning Hearts one week and Hibs the next. When it came to the crunch his heart lay at Tynecastle, but Easter Road was a welcoming second home for someone who simply wanted to spend their Saturday enjoying a game. I see no reason why someone couldn't choose to do the same in Edinburgh now. It might confuse the die-hards, but it would be accepted - if anywhere appreciates the value of combining art with labour, it's Edinburgh.

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